cooking-spree

May 9

Dinner with a friend – without the gluten

(This appeared as an earlier post, April 2011.) Last night we had our friend Christie to dinner. She’s a lovely person who deals with a rather un-lovely condition. It wasn’t at all difficult cooking for her, despite the food restrictions imposed on her. Besides the good companionship and lively conversation, here’s what we had at our table:

Grilled Salmon Fillets with Asparagus and Blood Oranges

Steamed New Potatoes with Butter and Chives

Green Salad with Avocado, Kumquats and Pistacios

Mango-Citrus Sorbet and Orangettes

and a bit of red wine

Being that April is Citrus Month (in Spree’s mind) each course celebrated those bright fruits. And with asparagus, blood oranges and new potatoes being so in-season, it was an appropriate dinner for a Spring evening. Though salmon season hasn’t quite hit yet, we found some beautiful thick fillets of wild salmon, flash-frozen at sea. Not a bad compromise!

(Recipes for each appear in the following posts.)

May 9

Why not Kumquats?

One simple salad I simply love has little slivers of bright and tartly fragrant kumquats in it. Have you never tried a kumquat? You should!

Green Salad with Kumquats, Avocado and Pistacios

Ingredients

Mesclun, mixed spring greens, or baby spinach (or lettuce of your choice)
Avocado
Kumquats (see NOTE)
Pistacios
Dressing – Cilantro-Lime Salad Dressing (in my post Cilantro-Lime Salad, today’s date.)

(You’ll notice that for green salads I don’t list quantities. Only you know how much you or those at your table will eat at one meal.)

Remove your pistacios from the shell. Chop them coarsely, or leave them whole, as you choose. (Or toss some whole ones in, and save the chopped ones for scattering over top.)

Wash and dry your lettuce.

Wash your kumquats, and slice them crosswise, as thinly as possible, removing the seeds as you go. (Yes, you DO eat the peel! In fact it’s all about the peel. Kumquats have been called the inside-out fruit – all the sweetness in the peel, the sour in the flesh.) For a salad feeding two, I use about a handful of kumquats.

Slice or chunk your avocado.

Combine your lettuce, the avocado, and kumquats in a salad bowl. Dress lightly with Cilantro-Lime dressing. Scatter with pistacios and serve.

NOTE: If you’re undecided on whether to try kumquats, I understand your hesitation, but maybe this will help: they’re little ovoids, somewhat smaller than a pecan; they manage somehow to be both hinting of sweet and smacking of tart; they smell vaguely like a daphne blossom, which is, if you didn’t know, heavenly; and they’re highly cute. What more could you ask for in a tiny fruit?

For a printer-friendly version of this recipe, click here.

May 9

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A slower, lemony breakfast

On a Saturday or Sunday morning, it’s such a delight to slow down the pace a little. Putzing a bit in the kitchen, and then savoring an extra cup of coffee or tea, with a plate of tender, lofty, lemony cakes is one sure way to do it. Maybe a game of Scrabble with your honey, and you’re home free. Not all (and maybe not many) will want to go the extra step of making their own ricotta, but I promise, it’s only slightly more complicated than boiling milk. If you want to give it a try, I’ve included some instructions that you can access by clicking on the “CONTINUED…” link below. But using a good quality store-bought ricotta will do just fine. The photos here show these cakes virtually unadorned, and they’re simply, delicately delicious that way. (A pat of soft butter, a good squeeze of lemon, a dusting of powdered sugar. A fork.) But you can also serve them with a Blueberry Sauce (recipe below) or a berry syrup, or (can we possibly wait?) heaping spoons of slightly sweetened and sliced Oregon strawberries (I’m sorry – they’re simply the best on earth.) I enjoy maple syrup, but it’s not what I’d put with these. They’re much better complimented by fruit. You’ll see.

Lemon-Ricotta Pancakes

9 ounces of ricotta cheese (1 cup + 2 Tbl.)
1/2 cup milk
2 large eggs, separated
zest of one lemon
juice of one lemon
1/2 t. vanilla extract
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 t. baking soda
1/4 t. fine salt
Extra fresh lemon for serving, or fresh fruit or berry syrup of your choice

Get ready: Turn your oven to 200°F and put your breakfast plates in to keep warm. Turn your griddle on to medium high. Then just before ladling out the batter for your cakes, brush the griddle with a little bit of neutral oil (such as canola or grapeseed.)

The batter: Separate the eggs, putting the yolks into a medium-size bowl, and the whites into a small one. Whisk the whites until frothy. (It’s not necessary to form peaks of them, but do get them white and full of air.) Mix the egg yolks with the ricotta cheese, milk, lemon juice and vanilla extract. In a separate small bowl sift together the flour, salt, and baking soda. Stir in the lemon zest. Mix the wet and dry ingredients until just blended. (Don’t over-mix or your tender little cakes will turn tough and mean.) Then gently fold in the frothy whites until blended.

Griddle: Spoon out the batter onto your greased griddle. It’s best for these if you keep the size small – say, around 3 inches diameter. You may find it works best if you spoon out a little and spread it slightly so that it’s not too very thick. (Around 1/4″ inch or so.) That way, they’ll be golden brown outside and cooked fully inside. Do a test run of several cakes to see if you’re happy, and then go to town! Like all pancakes, they’re of course best straight from the griddle, but you can keep a stack of them warm in your oven under a towel for a short time without harm.

Serve: As I mentioned above, they’re perfectly flavored to my taste with just a little more lemon juice, some melting butter and a dusting of powdered sugar. But the Blueberry Lemon Sauce here is a very nice accompaniment too! Come summer though, these cakes will lose top-billing to the strawberries that will gorgeously smother them.

for a printer-friendly version of the pancakes, click here.

Spree’s Lemony Blueberry Sauce

1 cup frozen blueberries (I love the little ones for this)
1 cup fresh blueberries
3 T. water
2 T. fresh lemon juice
3 T. sugar
1 t. lemon zest

Put the water, lemon juice and sugar into a small saucepan and stir until the sugar dissolves. Add the frozen blueberries and simmer for 5 to 7 minutes. Add fresh blueberries and lemon zest and simmer for about another 3 minutes. Serve warm.

for a printer-friendly version of the blueberry sauce, click here.

To make your own ricotta cheese, please click on the “read more” link below…

May 9

Orange Flowers

My mother reminded me of something yesterday that I’d nearly forgotten. She said that when (our grandpa) Papou first came to this country (and to Oregon) from his sunny home in Greece, it rained and rained and rained. For thirty-nine days straight, it rained. And on that gray and soggy thirty-ninth day, Papou swore, “If it rains one more day,” because that, of course, would be the proverbial fortieth, beyond which no human could possibly endure another, “I’m going back home!” And he spoke the words with such a Greek passion, who could have doubted him? When Papou woke that next morning, the sun shone and it shone with such a brilliance that he declared, “This now is my home!” And he stayed. And a young woman came to him from Greece and she became his wife. And together they raised a family of four strong boys. Who would have thought that one sunny day could change history? But for me, and my brothers, it did.

I was the first-born in a marriage that was troubled. And yet I was one of those rare and lucky ones, who, after my parents divorced, received a real Dad when a couple years later my mom remarried. One of those four sons of Papou and Yaya, Jim, knew what it meant to be family. He fell in love with our mom, but he loved us kids instantly. It took a little longer for us to realize we had in him a Dad. He was in no hurry. He won us over with his humor, his faithfulness, his sincerity and patience, his teaching, his stories and sometimes even his food.

I was a shy ten-year-old when my parents married. One day, my new Dad brought me something. It was an orange. A simple, ripe, juicy orange. But when it came to me, offered in his hands, it was a gift! It was a little treasure, an opened lotus flower, offered up tenderly just for me, because he loved me. And I can remember back, it was in that instant that something turned in me. I knew that someone thought I was special. And in that moment something else happened, though I didn’t realize it until years later. I can look on that open-hearted orange flower as the first time I thought of food as a gift, as a language through which we can express love. And so it is, these decades later, I sometimes still think of my Dad when I am putting love on the table.

I offer this month of April in the fondest possible memory of my Dad, and in celebration of all things citrus! Spree would like to declare it Citrus Month (and I think she just did.) So keep coming back for main course recipes, pasta and rice dishes, salads, marinades, preserves, desserts and beverages. Even a soup from my Papou and Yaya’s homeland!

May 9

It’s Official – Spring is Finally Here

It’s time to wrap up the last of the Beat the Winter Blues menu and get on to more colorful things! (And April’s going to be a very colorful and fun month for the cooking-spree!)

We served two lasagnas that winter night – one of them a Roasted Butternut Squash and Rapini lasagna; and the other a Turkey Sausage and Goat Cheese one which got raves, and rightly so. I don’t have photos of it and it was prepared very much as the recipe specified, so I’ll simply supply you the link for that one. It ranks right up there with the best lasagna I’ve ever had. I did make two little changes to the recipe though; first, instead of link sausage called for (which then requires you remove the turkey from its casings), I used bulk Italian turkey sausage. The other change was that instead of all mild or sweet Italian sausage, I replaced half the total amount called for with a hot or spicy variety. When I was recently visiting my daughter Ali and her family, we made it again, but this time with ricotta cheese we made ourselves. It was the first time we’d ever tried that, and it was remarkably easy and made us feel quite …well, puffed up and pleased with ourselves. Who knows if the lasagna tasted any better because of that extra love in the pan, but it couldn’t hurt, right? So, now that you have that background, if you’re a lasagna lover (or you know and love one) you might check out

Ina Garten’s Turkey and Goat Cheese Lasagna:

http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/ina-garten/turkey-lasagna-recipe2/index.html

(This post first appeared in March 2011.)

May 9

A Fruity, Nutty Kind of Granola

I mentioned in an earlier post that we have two granolas we enjoy for breakfast. But this is the one full of memories and sweet associations. This is the one we have a history with. It’s a rainy morning and I have a new batch baking now. The aromas floating through the kitchen take me back years and plop me down at an old wooden table, with its slightly creaky top – a table that was once “Yaya’s” and around which her four hungry boys gathered to be fed. (The third of these would one day be our Dad.) Many years later, it was the round, creaky table where my girls and I ate our meals and grew up together. Often our breakfasts would include small bowlfuls of creamy-smooth yogurt on which this crunchy granola was toppled, theirs with an extra shimmer of drizzled honey. We’d eat, planning our days, sometimes practicing spelling, finishing math or editing essays, chattering or giggling with mouths still full. There was a lot of happy around that table.

My daughters have the same honeyed aromas filling their kitchens these days, and new memories are forming in other cute little heads. In fact, today three little girls eat around that very same creaky-topped table, ambered and dented with years of living.

Even after all this time, my husband and I love when a fresh batch of granola is pulled, all crackly hot, from the oven. We can barely wait for it to cool. I suppose by now it’s obvious, this is the granola we favor.

Spree’s Golden Granola

Preheat oven to 300°F. Into an ample-sized glass or metal cake pan, scoop the following:

3 cups rolled oats (the slow-cooking, old-fashioned sort)
1 cup unsweetened coconut, shredded (see NOTE)
1/2 cup chopped raw almonds (or hazelnuts)
1/2 cup raw sesame seeds
1/2 cup unsweetened raw wheat germ
1/4 cup of ground flaxseed (optional)
To the above ingredients stir in
1/2 cup honey (or real maple syrup, or 1/4 cup of each)
1/4 cup canola oil
Stir to combine well, and then add
1/2 cup raw sunflower seeds

Pop the pan into your oven and plan on cooking for about an hour (though it may be to your liking in less), stirring every 15 minutes or thereabouts to toast it evenly. When it’s the kind of crunchy that suits you, remove and cool. Once cooled, add a total of

1 cup or so of dried fruits

My favorites: 1/2 cup dried apricots, chopped raisin-size (I have a strong preference for Trader Joe’s apricots, full of tangy flavor); 1/4 cup dried cranberries; and 1/4 cup or more of raisins. But I also like dried cherries or blueberries in place of one or two of the others. Make it as fruity as you like. Like all good granolas, it’s nice on yogurt with fresh fruit, or in a bowl with milk, or out of the hand for a quick little munch.

NOTE: The coconut you’ll see featured here is from Bob’s Red Mill – these ribbons of coconut look pretty, toast up beautifully, and put a distinct bite of coconut in your mouth.

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for a printer version of this recipe, click here.

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May 9

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Spicy Candied Pecans (or Walnuts)

Here’s another one of the appetizers served at our Beat the Winter Blues Party . I’ve tried a number of recipes for candied nuts over the years, but my favorite is this. (Judging from responses to these sweet and savory bites, I’m not alone.) I’ve made it with both pecans and walnuts, and though I love walnuts, pecans definitely have the edge here – something about their sweetness offset by the savory heat of the spices is just right.

Spicy Candied Pecans

Preheat oven to 350°F.

4 cups pecans

Spread the nuts in a shallow pan (either a broiler pan or a jelly roll pan will do.) Roast for 8 minutes.

Remove from the oven and drizzle on to the hot nuts…

1/4 cup maple syrup (grade B is darker and has a bit more maple-y flavor)
1/4 cup brown rice syrup

Stir to coat well, and then pop them back into the oven to roast another 10 minutes.

While the nuts are roasting, in a small bowl mix together:

2 T. sugar
1 t. ground cumin
1/2 t. chili powder
1 t. salt (or 1-1/2 if using Kosher)
2 t. paprika
1/8 t. (to as much as 1/4 t.) cayenne pepper

Place a piece of parchment paper on the counter and wait – (have you noticed that smell in your kitchen? ah!) When the nuts come out of the oven for the second time, quickly sprinkle the spices over them and mix well to coat. Quickly spread the candied nuts onto the parchment paper to cool, breaking the clumps apart with your fingers when they’re just cooled down enough to touch. Store airtight. (These make a nice gift too, in a pretty container or vintage jar.)

Serving suggestions: These are absolutely wonderful in a salad. I’ll give a favorite salad to utilize these nuts in an upcoming post. You can chop them up and roll a log of chevre over them and serve with crackers or crusty baguette. Or chopped and scattered over green beans or yams or – . And always as they are, straight from the jar, with nothing but your fingers.

This recipe came by way of my dear friend Carolyn, and to her, from another friend. That’s the way it goes with good eats. The original recipe called for corn syrup. I’ve replaced it with brown rice syrup, and not only is their taste improved (yes, hard to believe), but they’re crunchier and healthier too!

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For a printer-friendly version of this recipe, click here.

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May 9

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Marinated Olives

My husband and I had a “Beat Them Winter Blues” party over the weekend, with about 25 or so guests. We’re thinking it might be the first of a string of annual winter blasts. We had just way too much fun, and of course we ate too much, but we went into it knowing full well we would, and we feel no shame whatsoever! Over the next several posts I’ll be sharing recipes from that night’s menu. We begin with — as my Greek YaYa would say — the Oliv-ess. These little beauties received deep moans and sighs of appreciation, so you might just want to try them yourself. The recipe is not my own, so it’s fine if I brag (right?) – I think they’re one of the tastiest plump little olive bites I’ve ever popped in my mouth. The recipe comes from Giada de Laurentiis’ Everyday Italian. Graci, Giada!

Marinated Olives

3 T. Olive oil
1 T. grated lemon zest (from about 2 lemons)
1/2 t. dried crushed red pepper flakes
1-1/2 cups cracked green olives or other green olives – with their pits – (see NOTE)
1-1/2 cups Kalamata olives – with pits – (truly a combination of any olives you’re fond of will work here)
3 T. fresh lemon juice
2 T. chopped fresh basil

NOTE: About the olives. On this occasion I was unable to find cracked green olives, so chose the green olives with the least added herbs and spices, and then I rinsed them off and rolled them in paper towels before proceeding.

In a medium size, heavy skillet, warm the oil, lemon zest, and red pepper flakes over medium heat for about a minute, just until fragrant. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the olives. Add the fresh lemon juice and basil, and toss to coat. Transfer the olive mixture to a container, cover and refrigerate. Over the next 12 hours, stir from time to time, allowing the olives to soak up these lovely, bright Mediterranean flavors.

Before serving, allow the olives to return to room temperature, stirring occasionally. Put in a pretty little bowl and watch them fly out.

For a printer-friendly version of this recipe, click here.

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May 9

More love on the table

Approximately once a month, Sicily and I get together for a “baking date.” She’s a DELIGHTFUL nine-year-old, wise and funny, big-hearted and passionate. And like me, she loves to get her hands in the bowl. A couple weeks ago, we were making a gingerbread cake for her to take home to her family. It came time to “sift together the dry ingredients” and she looked to me with hopeful eyes, “Can I use my hands?” ”Absolutely!” So with her clean fingers she began sweeping and parting and stirring the silky flour and the spices through the sieve into the bowl beneath. Shaking the last bits of flour dust down, she lifted the sieve, and – cross my heart! – THIS is what was waiting:

Both our eyes widened, and I said, “Look at that, Sicily! You’re putting love in your gingerbread!” And she said, “Quick, Nana, get your cell phone. Take a picture!” And so I did. And so it goes…from Sicily’s hands, to the table, with love.

(This post first appeared in March 2011. The gingerbread we baked together was made just before Valentines Day, which made the occasion of this heart in a bowl doubly serendipitous. That recipe will appear in a later post.)

May 8

Still Not Soup

It’s not a rare thing that I stop along the way to admire the view. That’s as true for me in the kitchen as anywhere else. I’ve come to understand that those “diversions” are where Life is, waiting for me to show up, be awed, and be thankful. Case in point: my little side-trip into the cauliflower jungle. Soup can wait!